The Wonderful World of Tofu

Various tofus and their uses

There are basically two kinds of tofu: soft tofu, also called silken, and regular tofu, which is more or less firm. The two are not used in the same way and are not interchangeable in recipes. Texture and flavour can vary significantly from one brand to another. The best way to find your favourite is to taste them. 

SOFT OR SILKEN TOFU, PLAIN OR FLAVOURED (WITH MANGO, COCONUT, ALMOND, BANANA…)

Texture: Fine, smooth, very soft and very moist. Similar to gelatin. Breaks apart easily.

Uses: 

• Plain: Puréed for sauces, dips, dressings, mayonnaise, soups, smoothies, icings, cream desserts, pudding, etc.
• Flavoured: Can be eaten with a spoon, like a dessert.

MEDIUM, FIRM OR EXTRA-FIRM TOFU, PLAIN OR FLAVOURED (WITH VEGETABLES, GINGER, SEAWEED, HERBS…)

Texture: Varies by brand, from moist and soft to dry and grainy. Can be sliced or crumbled. Holds its shape well.

Uses: 

• Sliced or cubed: For frying, grilling, sautéing, pan-searing or simmering in saucy dishes, stews, etc. 
• Crumbled or grated: For sandwich fillings (like egg salad) or to replace ground meat (e.g., spaghetti sauces, shepherd’s pie, etc.).
• Puréed: For dips and spreads (thicker than with silken tofu), quiches, cheesecakes, etc.

HIGH IN PROTEIN? YES, BUT…

It’s true that tofu is a good meat substitute, but you need to use the right kind and to eat enough. Firm tofu contains about 15 to 17g of quality protein per 100g serving. That’s about the same as 60g of cooked chicken or 70g of cheddar cheese. Soft tofu, on the other hand, has much less protein; just 5 or 6g per 100g. A quick look at the nutrition label on the packaging will help you spot the difference.

How’s it made?

Tofu production has two steps: First, it’s making soy “milk” from soybeans and second, it’s turning the “milk” into tofu.

1. MAKING SOY “MILK”

Soy “milk” is made from dried soybeans. They’re soaked for several hours to soften, and are then ground with water. The mixture, now reminiscent of oatmeal, is heated, then filtered and pressed to obtain pulp and a whitish liquid, the soy “milk.” The pulp is sold to make animal feed, while the liquid moves on to the next step: tofu production.

2. TURNING SOY “MILK” INTO TOFU

To make tofu, the proteins found in the soy “milk” must coagulate, a bit like making cheese from cow’s milk. To do this, a coagulant is added. The choice of coagulant determines the texture of the tofu, as well as its nutritional value. 

To make regular and firm tofu: The soy “milk” is mixed with either magnesium chloride or calcium chloride and heated gently until the proteins bind together and form curds, which float to the surface of the liquid. Everything is then filtered until only the coagulated proteins remain. This mass is then placed into perforated moulds and pressed into blocks to form tofu.

During pressing, any excess liquid is drained out, helping the tofu to become firmer and to concentrate the proteins that it contains. The duration and pressure of the pressing determines whether the tofu will be medium, firm or extra firm. 

1.5 litres of soy “milk” is needed to make 500g of firm tofu.

To make soft or silken tofu: The soy “milk” is instead mixed with calcium sulfate, or even an acid that’s naturally found in fruits, lemon juice and honey, called glucono-delta-lactone. The mixture is then heated gently at low temperature until the proteins coagulate. 

With these types of coagulants, the soy “milk” doesn’t form curds, but rather a gelled mass that’s reminiscent of Jell-O. Soft tofu isn’t drained, which explains its soft, smooth and humid texture, as well as its low protein content.

1.5 litres of soy “milk” is needed to make 1.5kg of soft tofu.

Why soy “milk”?

In Canada, there’s a law that governs the use of the word “milk.” It applies solely to liquid secreted by the mammary glands of a mammal, like a cow, sheep or goat. The official term for soy “milk” is soy drink. But given that, in colloquial language, people tend to say soy “milk,” we’ve chosen to put “milk” in quotation marks.

Tips for cooking firm tofu

It’s just as easy to learn how to cook tofu as you would different cuts of meat. All you need are a few basic tips on how to season and cook it properly.

1. MARINATE IT 

Tofu is like a sponge; it soaks up the flavours of a marinade, as long as you give it enough time. Simply cut it up into slices or cubes, and let it marinate in the fridge for at least an hour, or overnight.

2. COAT IT 

Dry rubs adhere well to the wet surface of the tofu, providing it with lots of flavour in little time. Simply press slices of tofu into a spice mix or rub them with a spice paste (spice blend, puréed garlic and oil) before pan-searing them. You can then grill them or bake them in the oven, or add them to an Asian stir-fry.

3. ADD SOME CRUNCH 

A slice of tofu that’s been grilled, seared in a pan or roasted in the oven is much more satisfying when it has a crispy exterior and a soft centre. How to achieve this texture? Press the tofu into some sesame seeds, finely chopped nuts, plain or Panko breadcrumbs before adding it to a skillet with oil or a sheet pan in the oven.

4. USE CORNSTARCH 

You can also generously coat sliced or cubed tofu in cornstarch before frying in a skillet with oil. The cornstarch forms a thin golden and crispy crust later on the surface, while the centre remains soft. The tofu pieces can then be coated in a sauce (like in our General Tao Tofu recipe), added to an Asian stir-fry, or enjoyed with a dip.

5. SAUTÉ AND PAN SEAR CORRECTLY

Sautéed or pan-seared tofu is at its best when it’s golden and crisp on the outside, and soft on the inside. To achieve this, you need to dry it well (or coat it with cornstarch, breadcrumbs or sesame seeds–see above!), then sear it in a skillet over medium-high heat, in a bit of oil, for 3 or 4 minutes per side without moving it around, until it’s nicely golden. Colour equals flavour!

6. GRATE OR CRUMBLE IT 

When crumbled, tofu has a texture that resembles ground meat, and can therefore go unnoticed in a dish. Try mixing half-and-half in your favourite chili, spaghetti sauce, taco or shepherd’s pie recipe. Tofu can also be grated with a cheese grater, like in this vegetarian taco recipe.

7. PRESS IT 

Firm tofu still contains water that gives it a somewhat wet texture. Want something a little drier? Simply press out the water. It’s easy; cut the tofu into slices 1 or 2 cm thick and place them on a plate covered with several layers of paper towels. Cover the slices with more paper towels, followed by another plate with a weight on top (two or three cans, for example). Let the tofu drain for about 30 minutes, changing the paper towels as needed. Once pressed, the tofu slices will absorb more flavour from your recipe or marinade. You can also press soft or silken tofu. In this instance, keep the block whole (it’s too fragile to slice) and then press it as described above, changing the paper towels as soon as they become soaked. After an hour or two, silken tofu will resemble cream cheese.

8. FREEZE IT BEFORE COOKING 

Freezing tofu prior to using it is a popular technique in Asia. Ice crystals form during freezing, breaking the tofu’s structure and giving it a more spongy texture. This allows it to absorb more flavour. It’s easy; just cut the tofu into slices 1 or 2 cm thick, and place them in a single layer in a freezer bag. Then place the bag in the freezer. When you’re ready to cook it, put the bag in a bowl of warm water to thaw the tofu (this takes only a few minutes), and then press the slices in a strainer to release some of the water. You can then cut them into cubes or leave them as is. You can marinate them or add them immediately to a recipe that contains a sauce. The tofu will now act as a veritable sponge and absorb the marinade or sauce much better than fresh tofu would.

Buying and storing tofu

Tofu is a perishable product. You can locate it in the refrigerated sections of stores (except for tofu sold in Tetra Paks). Store the tofu in the refrigerator and use before its “best before” date. If you don’t end up using the entire container, place the excess tofu in an airtight container and cover with cold water. If you change the water daily, the tofu will keep for 3 or 4 days. Toss it if the surface is slippery or has a sour smell.